The Politics of High Heels
Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 6:50 pm
Hi all,
An incident got me thinking this afternoon. Yes, incidents do that to me sometimes. I was just leaving the lobby of a hospital when I noticed a woman in front of me just heading out the door herself. She was in her mid-30's, dressed rather attractively in tight-fitting jeans and a cashmere sweater (yes, it's still on the cool side up here). What struck me about her is not that she was wearing very high heels (rather incongruously for a hospital visit) but that she was having what was obviously a very hard time walking in them. Her hips were wobbling every which way but loose. When she got to the short concrete ramp leading down to the outdoor parking lot, she arched her shoulders so far back that, for a timeless moment in which I found myself holding my breath, I was sure she was about to take a hard fall on her back. To be honest, her gait reminded me of that of an inexperienced crossdresser.
It then occured to me--certainly not for the first time--that this quasi-handicapped, awkward walk that is the result of wearing high heels is what we crossdressers seek to imitate and emulate? For Pete's sake, why? What could we (meaning both crossdressers as well as women) possibly get from putting little stilts under our heels and going about our business with the weight of our bodies shifted onto the balls of our feet?
Well, there are traditional answers, I guess. Many of them have to do with esthetic appeal. An elevated heel makes the leg look longer and sleeker. An elevated heel shifts the body's center of gravity in such a manner that the wearer is forced to ever so slightly push her shoulders back, thus accentuating both rump and bosom. An elevated heel makes the wearer look taller. And so on and so on.
There are also psychological reasons for the appeal of the high heel. Psychologists--mainly Freudians--see in the heel itself an image of the phallus. Frankly, no matter how hard I look, I still see only a heel. But maybe there's something to it, who knows? I do know this: there are shoe manufacturers out there (or should I say "way out there") who specialize in, shall we say, making the implicit explicit, when it comes to designing a high heel. Let's leave it at that. Another psychological aspect has to do with stature. People who are taller are often seen as having more authority (however illusory or non-existent that authority may be). It's easier to look up to someone if you actually have to look up rather than down. Well, I'm not sure I buy that either. It sounds too pat an explanation to me. Still, I wonder. One thing I find interesting is that, as women in the last century or so have fought to claim (or reclaim) their rights as the social equal of men, the height of high heels has risen proportionally. The Victorian one-inch heel (modestly hidden, of course) is the ancestor to the strappy four-inch high Studio 54 sandal. "You've come a long way, baby"... yeah, as long as you're not twisting your ankle or taking a pratfall every other week.
There's a darker side, though, to the life of the high heel shoe. Maybe it comes under the heading of the "Politics of the High Heel Shoe." The gender politics, that is. Clothing has tremendous symbolic power. In many ways, clothes (footwear definitely included) are symbols. For instance, clothes serve not only to protect our bodies from a sometimes hostile environment or to cover our nakedness but also to express social relations between ourselves. Traditionally, there's nothing that says, "I am a productive and gainfully employed member of society" like the diagonally-striped necktie that is so much a feature of many contemporary men's daily uniform. Likewise, there's little that says, "I reject your corrupt values" as does the torn and scuffed leather and denim that is an integral part of the uniform adopted by youths in certain social sets. The shoe is no exception. Many women will readily admit that women's clothing and footwear is often impractical and restrictive. But that's just the point. It's meant to be so. Walking on stilts hampers mobility and range; it's the ideal "tool" to keep a woman "in her place." (By the way, gals, I'm not inventing any of this; gender and cultural theorists have been harping on the evils of the corset and the heel until they're blue in the face for quite some time now.) This social function of the shoe finds its most cruel expression in the traditional Chinese practice of foot-binding, where a woman was made to wear, throughout her entire life, progressively smaller shoes so that her toes eventually wound up nestled face down under the balls of her feet... and the smaller the shoe (I think the smallest on record is an adult shoe only three inches long--long, not high!), the more feminine the woman was considered to be. It's by no means a stretch of the imagination to suppose that there's a parallel between the Chinese fixation on short feet and our Western fixation on high heels. They serve the same unavowed purpose; to immobilize and to limit freedom. Women are not to transgress certain social limits, it seems. Corsets kept them breathless and perpetually near to fainting (Freud made a career out of inventing mental illnesses for women whose problems were more the result of their sartorial servitude; yes, I'd "have the vapours," too, if I only had access to 30% of my lung capacity). Long nails, too, are a pain; for any physical work that requires the least bit of skillful manipulation with the hands, it's so very good to have a short-nailed male around. And the high heel fits right into this. Women cannot run without risking injury. Hell, just walking is risk enough in these shoes.
As usual, there are many sides to any tale. I've heard it said by some psychologists with a spiritual bent--presumably, Jungians--that the high heel shoe is symbolic in an entirely different manner. They contend that high heels were originally worn by men (and, indeed, they were), starting at around the time of Louis XIV, king of France, in order to raise these men up to the heavens (associated with a very much desired male spiritual power) and to separate them from contact with the earth (associated with a reviled and shunned female spiritual power). At first, only influential and politically significant men wore heels and, later, most men came to adopt the practice. I don't know how much water this holds, though. As far as I can tell--the sources aren't always clear on this and are often contradictory--there wasn't any noticeable difference between the height of men's and women's high heels back then. It could be that both sexes have worn heels for ages, at some time or another (in the same way corsets were around in ancient Crete, some 3,400 years before ol' Sigmund had a field day with hysterical--and suffocating-- women of every ilk).
And this is the ultimate paradox of who I am, as a crossdresser: I agree with much of what the theorists have to say regarding women's clothing and shoes but I will never prevent myself from experiencing the thrill that comes at discovering that that perfect pair of pumps I just bought actually fit me. And fit me well. In the end, what is most often a mystery to our SO'S is also very often a mystery to ourselves as well.
Walk safe, gals. And if you're ever in a tough spot, well... just make sure you have a short-nailed, low-heeled woman nearby.
Love,
CJ
An incident got me thinking this afternoon. Yes, incidents do that to me sometimes. I was just leaving the lobby of a hospital when I noticed a woman in front of me just heading out the door herself. She was in her mid-30's, dressed rather attractively in tight-fitting jeans and a cashmere sweater (yes, it's still on the cool side up here). What struck me about her is not that she was wearing very high heels (rather incongruously for a hospital visit) but that she was having what was obviously a very hard time walking in them. Her hips were wobbling every which way but loose. When she got to the short concrete ramp leading down to the outdoor parking lot, she arched her shoulders so far back that, for a timeless moment in which I found myself holding my breath, I was sure she was about to take a hard fall on her back. To be honest, her gait reminded me of that of an inexperienced crossdresser.
It then occured to me--certainly not for the first time--that this quasi-handicapped, awkward walk that is the result of wearing high heels is what we crossdressers seek to imitate and emulate? For Pete's sake, why? What could we (meaning both crossdressers as well as women) possibly get from putting little stilts under our heels and going about our business with the weight of our bodies shifted onto the balls of our feet?
Well, there are traditional answers, I guess. Many of them have to do with esthetic appeal. An elevated heel makes the leg look longer and sleeker. An elevated heel shifts the body's center of gravity in such a manner that the wearer is forced to ever so slightly push her shoulders back, thus accentuating both rump and bosom. An elevated heel makes the wearer look taller. And so on and so on.
There are also psychological reasons for the appeal of the high heel. Psychologists--mainly Freudians--see in the heel itself an image of the phallus. Frankly, no matter how hard I look, I still see only a heel. But maybe there's something to it, who knows? I do know this: there are shoe manufacturers out there (or should I say "way out there") who specialize in, shall we say, making the implicit explicit, when it comes to designing a high heel. Let's leave it at that. Another psychological aspect has to do with stature. People who are taller are often seen as having more authority (however illusory or non-existent that authority may be). It's easier to look up to someone if you actually have to look up rather than down. Well, I'm not sure I buy that either. It sounds too pat an explanation to me. Still, I wonder. One thing I find interesting is that, as women in the last century or so have fought to claim (or reclaim) their rights as the social equal of men, the height of high heels has risen proportionally. The Victorian one-inch heel (modestly hidden, of course) is the ancestor to the strappy four-inch high Studio 54 sandal. "You've come a long way, baby"... yeah, as long as you're not twisting your ankle or taking a pratfall every other week.
There's a darker side, though, to the life of the high heel shoe. Maybe it comes under the heading of the "Politics of the High Heel Shoe." The gender politics, that is. Clothing has tremendous symbolic power. In many ways, clothes (footwear definitely included) are symbols. For instance, clothes serve not only to protect our bodies from a sometimes hostile environment or to cover our nakedness but also to express social relations between ourselves. Traditionally, there's nothing that says, "I am a productive and gainfully employed member of society" like the diagonally-striped necktie that is so much a feature of many contemporary men's daily uniform. Likewise, there's little that says, "I reject your corrupt values" as does the torn and scuffed leather and denim that is an integral part of the uniform adopted by youths in certain social sets. The shoe is no exception. Many women will readily admit that women's clothing and footwear is often impractical and restrictive. But that's just the point. It's meant to be so. Walking on stilts hampers mobility and range; it's the ideal "tool" to keep a woman "in her place." (By the way, gals, I'm not inventing any of this; gender and cultural theorists have been harping on the evils of the corset and the heel until they're blue in the face for quite some time now.) This social function of the shoe finds its most cruel expression in the traditional Chinese practice of foot-binding, where a woman was made to wear, throughout her entire life, progressively smaller shoes so that her toes eventually wound up nestled face down under the balls of her feet... and the smaller the shoe (I think the smallest on record is an adult shoe only three inches long--long, not high!), the more feminine the woman was considered to be. It's by no means a stretch of the imagination to suppose that there's a parallel between the Chinese fixation on short feet and our Western fixation on high heels. They serve the same unavowed purpose; to immobilize and to limit freedom. Women are not to transgress certain social limits, it seems. Corsets kept them breathless and perpetually near to fainting (Freud made a career out of inventing mental illnesses for women whose problems were more the result of their sartorial servitude; yes, I'd "have the vapours," too, if I only had access to 30% of my lung capacity). Long nails, too, are a pain; for any physical work that requires the least bit of skillful manipulation with the hands, it's so very good to have a short-nailed male around. And the high heel fits right into this. Women cannot run without risking injury. Hell, just walking is risk enough in these shoes.
As usual, there are many sides to any tale. I've heard it said by some psychologists with a spiritual bent--presumably, Jungians--that the high heel shoe is symbolic in an entirely different manner. They contend that high heels were originally worn by men (and, indeed, they were), starting at around the time of Louis XIV, king of France, in order to raise these men up to the heavens (associated with a very much desired male spiritual power) and to separate them from contact with the earth (associated with a reviled and shunned female spiritual power). At first, only influential and politically significant men wore heels and, later, most men came to adopt the practice. I don't know how much water this holds, though. As far as I can tell--the sources aren't always clear on this and are often contradictory--there wasn't any noticeable difference between the height of men's and women's high heels back then. It could be that both sexes have worn heels for ages, at some time or another (in the same way corsets were around in ancient Crete, some 3,400 years before ol' Sigmund had a field day with hysterical--and suffocating-- women of every ilk).
And this is the ultimate paradox of who I am, as a crossdresser: I agree with much of what the theorists have to say regarding women's clothing and shoes but I will never prevent myself from experiencing the thrill that comes at discovering that that perfect pair of pumps I just bought actually fit me. And fit me well. In the end, what is most often a mystery to our SO'S is also very often a mystery to ourselves as well.
Walk safe, gals. And if you're ever in a tough spot, well... just make sure you have a short-nailed, low-heeled woman nearby.
Love,
CJ